The chaotic summer crowds have gone, but there’s still lots of activity around Schull when the sun is shining.
We parked at Cadogan Strand and strolled into the village, passing the Schull Harbor Hotel and then Casa T’s restaurant where there were plenty of patrons dining outdoors as if it were southern Spain.
The temperature was about 15°C (60°F) but felt much warmer with barely any clouds to block the sun and no wind to carry in the autumnal cold.
Our initial plan was to go to the last Schull Country Market of 2025, but when we got to the Pier Road Car Park, there were no market stalls to be seen. Turns out last week was the last market of the year.
Bummer.
A new plan was hatched.
Instead, we decided to get a coffee and a pastry and go for a swim at Cadogan Strand.
(TOP TIP: When you’re out and about in Cork, always keep swimming gear in your car. The sun can shine unexpectedly, sparkling the sea, tempting you in. Don’t miss out because you don’t have togs and a towel handy.)
Amar’s Café was especially busy today, so we went to The Townhouse to avoid the queue and the wait.
Claire got an oat milk latte and a cinnamon roll. I got an americano and an apple turnover. Our pastries were just out of the oven and still warm. Perfect, since we were saving them and our coffees for after our dip in the cold sea.
Schull has many excellent swim spots but Cadogan Strand is perhaps the most prominent since you drive right by it entering the village from the east. That’s where we parked and where our swimming gear was, so that’s where we’d swim today.
Cadogan Strand is kind of like two connecting coves. Two crescent-shaped beaches that meet at a tidal land bridge out to a small island. It’s a mixture of stone and sand, so swimming booties are recommended for bathers with sensitive feet.
The views from Cadogan Strand are stunning, out to Schull Harbor and the distinctive stonewash white lighthouse on Long Island. Sherkin Island and Cape Clear Island are further out.
Today, we had it all to ourselves.
Going into the water from the west side of Cadogan Strand, we walked down the slip and over a few stones which quickly became soft sand, rippled by gentle waves and pocked with tufts of grass.
The water was crystal clear. I swam out to a depth of about 7ft and could still see the seabed.
When we got into the water at about 11:30am it was half-tide, so we had to wade out a bit before we could properly swim. I prefer a slower, gradual entry anyway, so I have more time to acclimatize and to prepare for the shock of plunging into cold water.
The water temperature was about 14°C (57°F).
Locals call that temperature “fresh”, but cold water safety experts call it “very dangerous.” So whenever swimming anywhere in Ireland, be aware of your tolerance for colder water and never swim alone.
We stayed in for about ten minutes, enjoying a gentle swim and just taking in the views. Then it was time for hot coffee, warm pastries and that euphoric tingle you get when warming up after a cold dip.
Getting to Cadogan Strand is easy.
When entering the village of Schull from the east (Ballydehob side), Cadogan Strand is on your left and unmissable.
There is parking for several cars right by the road.
There’s also a carpark a little further down the road, but it has a height barrier and is only open in the summer.
And you can also park at one of several carparks in Schull village and just walk to Cadogan Strand. It takes about ten minutes and there’s a footpath the whole way.
Since Cadogan Strand is more a cove than a long strand and Schull Harbor is sheltered by the Carbery Islands, you shouldn’t get big waves. But there can be undercurrents.
Dogs are welcome but must be kept on a lead.