Between Rosscarbery and Leap, on a sharp corner of the N71, there’s an abandoned pub called the Morris Arms.
Once a popular spot for rest and refreshments, it’s been closed for nearly a decade.
Its decay is in contrast to the thriving Dromillihy Wood, which as you’ll see, the pub shares a long history with.
The Morris Arms was in the news earlier this year because squatters started a fire there, causing the roof to collapse.
It’s hard now to imagine a future for the 200-year-old pub.
For two-hundred years, the Morris Arms was a respite for road-weary travelers and traders. It’s now closed and crumbling, like many a rural pub in Ireland.
The name of the Morris Arms traces back to the 1660s, when Captain William Morris was granted over 1,500 acres in the area for soldiering during the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland (1649-51).
Part of that land included what is now called Dromillihy (or Drom Oilche in Irish, meaning ridge of the rocky place), where you’ll find a beautiful woodland walk managed by Coillte.
Since the sun was somewhat shining on Sunday, we took our dog Juno to Dromillihy for a stroll in the woods. Our walk was only half the mission, though. We had an ulterior motive, to browse a nearby antique store for a dinner table (but we didn’t tell Juno).
According to the information board at the entrance to Dromillihy, it has been consistently wooded since the 1830s.
The information board in the carpark gives a brief history of Dromillihy (in Irish and English) and has a map of the Cellmount Loop trail.
Ireland’s forest cover is among the lowest in the European Union, with only 11% coverage compared to an average of 33.5%. So old woodland like Dromillihy is surprisingly rare on the “Emerald Isle”.
Perhaps Dromillihy survived because it was part of a private estate. Protected for its wealthy owners to enjoy.
There’s only one waymarked trail at Dromillihy called the Cellmount Loop and it’s short, only 1.6km. Sometimes we walk it twice to double the distance. Even then it’s short, but oh so sweet…
The trail starts by walking up stone steps and into a verdant sea.
At this time of year, the tall canopy is still green and lush, but thinning out.
Upon entering Dromillihy woods and moving further from the carpark and road, you’re quickly surrounded by serenity and silence (except for soft birdsong).
We went right at the trail junction, to walk counter-clockwise. But since it’s a loop, you can go left if you prefer.
It’s hard to get lost at Dromillihy. Stay on the path and you’ll swing back to the carpark eventually.
There are handy information posts dotted along the trail, telling you more about the history and nature of the area.
Did you know, for example, the Sessile Oak is Ireland’s national tree?
Information posts along Dromillihy’s trail let you learn more about the area.
About halfway into the walk is a big stone wall, all that’s left of Cellmount House, once owned by Captain William Morris’ great-grandson, also called William Morris.
It is believed Cellmount House stood from the 1730s to the 1830s, when it fell into disrepair and was dismantled so the stone could be used to build other houses in the Connonagh townland.
It reminds me of Ozymandias by Percy Bysshe Shelley, “No thing beside remains. Round the decay of that colossal wreck…”
Perhaps the Morris Arms is built from stone originally used to build Cellmont House…
Juno, deep in thought about how time cares not for man’s folly and follies. Probably.
After our brisk walk we drove to RH Vintage Interiors. It’s only 650m from Dromillihy, but you don’t want to walk that stretch of the N71. There isn’t a hard shoulder the entire way and the speed limit is 100kph anyway. So it’s just safer to drive.
At RH Vintage Interiors we didn’t find a dinner table that meets Claire’s very precise-and some might say unrealistic-needs. But we still had a nice browse and chat with the owners. Stock turns over fast there, so we just need to make a habit of visiting more often and crossing our fingers something comes in.
At least, that’s what I’m going to tell Claire to use an excuse to go to The Beehive Bar over the road. Despite the closure of the Morris Arms, The Beehive Bar still appears to be trading and looked lively when driving by in the evening.
The hunt for a dinner table at RH Vintage Interiors was unsuccessful but we still had fun browsing old furniture and other knickknacks.
The carpark for Dromillihy Forest Recreational Area (to give its full name) is just off the N71, but it’s easy to miss if you’re caught in fast-moving traffic.
About five minutes after Rosscarbery (driving west from Cork City toward Skibbereen) you’ll come to a bridge over the River Roury and a tight turn left. The Morris Arms is on the right, then The Beehive Bar and then RH Vintage Interior.
Keep going, past The Old Mill Stores (now closed), the entrance to the carpark for Dromillihy is on your left.
There’s space for about ten cars comfortably, maybe a bit more.
Dogs are welcome but there aren’t any bins (typical with Coillte forests), so you have to take poo bags with you.